International Dad
June 2008
Whether I ate outdoors with my Lebanese family in South Africa or with my American family in our English dining room, enjoying a meal has been very much
A Lively Social Experience
By Glen Mezher
In my early years in South Africa, eating was divided into two distinct experiences. First there was my Lebanese family: father, mother and brother, where traditional food was the central focus and sitting down to dinner meant a delicious and satisfying meal. Being part of a small ethnic community, dining was very much a social experience. On Sundays after church, the community would gather at one family home or another and have lunch together – grownups, kids and all. The weather being what it is in South Africa, barbecues (or braais, as they are known) were very popular, but traditional foods held sway.
The second experience was very different – boarding school – tasteless meals, overcooked and a mad scramble to claim your share (telescopic arms necessary). Nevertheless, still a very social experience with 60 kids in the same dining room.
Later, after marriage and a first child, I moved to Brazil. On the social level, eating was even more of a family experience because Brazilians have such large, extended families. The Sunday meal was, again, the central attraction. The main course was usually feijoada, a stew of beans and all the parts of a pig that you can imagine. It was delicious in the extreme, but required a mandatory nap afterwards while the kids went off to create mayhem. The family experience continued at restaurants, and I was always amazed at how even posh restaurants coped with small children and never had any problems dealing with their tantrums. The service staff would even volunteer for impromptu babysitting.
When I arrived in California in the late ’70s, everything changed. As a family, we experienced a food-culture shock, because food seemed more biological necessity than cultural entertainment. The family experience seemed less prominent and didn’t play quite the same central role. Eating out was a far more common practice than we had experienced before and, when friends wanted to get together, it was more frequently for dinner at a restaurant than dinner at home. Given the relatively high level of disposable income and the good weather, it is perfectly understandable; there are few things in life more enjoyable than having a delicious meal al fresco. Also, food in the home was frequently prepared and left for family members to eat on their way through to their next assignment, and entertaining guests at the dining table wasn't a very popular practice. Then, too, there was the matter of fast foods, something we had not come across before. So the dining experience was much more outside of the home than we were accustomed to.
Finally, I ended up in England – where the weather changes everything. There is little opportunity to eat outside, except in the summer, and the local way of life does not include frequent visits to restaurants. So meals are usually taken in the dining room, family-style. Again, the big meal happens on Sunday: roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes and vegetables. This meal is often maligned (the French call the English “les rosbifes”) but it can be delicious and comforting on a cold, wet day. A variation of the fast-food chains are the pubs. They are popular social-gathering places, but usually serve indifferent food – however, gastro-pubs that aim to improve the quality of the food are emerging. The English do have their own variety of fast food: the fish-and-chips shops. These local chippies are still very popular; the small village where I live boasts three of them. Sadly, though, you can’t buy them wrapped in newspaper any more.
How has all this cultural diversity affected my family’s attitude to food? Not much, really, because food has remained very much the center of family life. The dynamics have changed a lot, though. As the children grew up, there was much more participation in the making of the food, not just the eating as in the old days. As a result, the children have become great cooks. Now there is a different dimension to dining because we’re spread all over the world, and there is the exchanging of recipes, talking (over Skype, of course) about recent restaurant experiences, great meals, delicious dishes, new tastes. And when we get together, we spend more time planning menus and selecting restaurants than any other activity. Food in my family is still a lively social affair, but it now has a more international flavor.